Copenhagen

An early Christmas in Copenhagen, Denmark
We landed at Copenhagen Airport, and I noticed one of my Egencia offices was in the airport!
1 We landed at Copenhagen Airport, and I noticed one of my Egencia offices was in the airport!
 So I went in, introduced myself, and met Ole, a fellow Egencian.
2 So I went in, introduced myself, and met Ole, a fellow Egencian.
 We arrived by metro in the Old Town, and picked up our key to our AirBnB apartment.
3 We arrived by metro in the Old Town, and picked up our key to our AirBnB apartment.
 Inside, the apartment was airy and white and very Nordic.
4 Inside, the apartment was airy and white and very Nordic.
 The view from the kitchen windows.
5 The view from the kitchen windows.
The upstairs to the apartment
6 The upstairs to the apartment
 Our lovely Danish hosts, Signe and Anders!
7 Our lovely Danish hosts, Signe and Anders!
 We walked around the city- first up, the famous Marble Church.
8 We walked around the city- first up, the famous Marble Church.
 The interior of the domed church
9 The interior of the domed church
 Artsy shot!
10 Artsy shot!
On the same street was the Russian Orthodox Church.
11 On the same street was the Russian Orthodox Church.
 The gold spires were gorgeous in the sunlight.
12 The gold spires were gorgeous in the sunlight.
 Before we arrived in Copenhagen, we had purchased 2 Copenhagen Cards- passes to all the city's sights at a fraction of the cost. This is the first of many Copenhagen Card destinations on this trip! This is Amelienborg Castle.
13 Before we arrived in Copenhagen, we had purchased 2 Copenhagen Cards- passes to all the city's sights at a fraction of the cost. This is the first of many Copenhagen Card destinations on this trip! This is Amelienborg Castle.
 The Marble Church is the Castle's church- it's right across the street.
14 The Marble Church is the Castle's church- it's right across the street.
 Only 1 building of this massive complex is open to the public, and it's an art museum. But the square itself is really lovely. The palace isn't open to visitors because the royal family actually lives here.
15 Only 1 building of this massive complex is open to the public, and it's an art museum. But the square itself is really lovely. The palace isn't open to visitors because the royal family actually lives here.
Nyhavn ("New Port")- the most picturesque area in Copenhagen.
16 Nyhavn ("New Port")- the most picturesque area in Copenhagen.
 Nyhavn is even prettier all lit up for Christmas.
17 Nyhavn is even prettier all lit up for Christmas.
 The port is lined with colorful buildings, and boats fill the canal. It's a lot like Amsterdam.
18 The port is lined with colorful buildings, and boats fill the canal. It's a lot like Amsterdam.
 Enjoying the view :)
19 Enjoying the view :)
 Canal boat tours run from Nyhavn through the city. Our Copenhagen Tourist Cards gave us free boat ride tickets, so we set off on a canal ride!
20 Canal boat tours run from Nyhavn through the city. Our Copenhagen Tourist Cards gave us free boat ride tickets, so we set off on a canal ride!
The boats were covered and heated, but yet still very chilly :)
21 The boats were covered and heated, but yet still very chilly :)
 It was such a gorgeous evening- perfect blue sky, and no wind.
22 It was such a gorgeous evening- perfect blue sky, and no wind.
 Happy Nordic holidaymakers on a boat :)
23 Happy Nordic holidaymakers on a boat :)
 The view from the boat.
24 The view from the boat.
 The sun began to set in a SPECTACULAR sunset.
25 The sun began to set in a SPECTACULAR sunset.
Sunset over Copenhagen.
26 Sunset over Copenhagen.
 A very tired and jetlagged Matt (we'd been up for 30 hours by now) braves the chill on the boat deck.
27 A very tired and jetlagged Matt (we'd been up for 30 hours by now) braves the chill on the boat deck.
 The sunset continued....
28 The sunset continued....
 The boat had tiny earplug jacks to listen to an English-language tour as we sailed by.
29 The boat had tiny earplug jacks to listen to an English-language tour as we sailed by.
 The Marble Church from the boat.
30 The Marble Church from the boat.
A closeup of the Marble Church at sunset.
31 A closeup of the Marble Church at sunset.
 This is Copenhagen's fancy new Opera House. Built in 2005, it's one of the most modern, expensive opera houses ever built.
32 This is Copenhagen's fancy new Opera House. Built in 2005, it's one of the most modern, expensive opera houses ever built.
 More sunset views.
33 More sunset views.
 In November, it gets dark around 4pm. This is about 4:15pm.
34 In November, it gets dark around 4pm. This is about 4:15pm.
 ...and then it got dark REALLY fast.
35 ...and then it got dark REALLY fast.
Nighttime!
36 Nighttime!
 When we arrived back in Nyhavn, it was full dark, and all lit with twinkly lights.
37 When we arrived back in Nyhavn, it was full dark, and all lit with twinkly lights.
 Lovely Nyhavn
38 Lovely Nyhavn
 We took much-needed naps, and at 7pm, we were back out...to TIVOLI GARDENS!! I'm in Tivoli at Christmastime!!
39 We took much-needed naps, and at 7pm, we were back out...to TIVOLI GARDENS!! I'm in Tivoli at Christmastime!!
 Yay Tivoli! It is the second-oldest amusement park in the world, and a symbol of Copenhagen.
40 Yay Tivoli! It is the second-oldest amusement park in the world, and a symbol of Copenhagen.
Tivoli goes all out at Christmastime with lights and holiday displays. And since Tivoli admission was included with the Copenhagen Card, we were gonna visit the sh*t out of this place.
41 Tivoli goes all out at Christmastime with lights and holiday displays. And since Tivoli admission was included with the Copenhagen Card, we were gonna visit the sh*t out of this place.
 Copenhagen has lots of lovely, snug little Christmas markets- and this is Tivoli's Christmas market.
42 Copenhagen has lots of lovely, snug little Christmas markets- and this is Tivoli's Christmas market.
 Christmas trees in Tivoli's Christmas market!
43 Christmas trees in Tivoli's Christmas market!
 The Arabian Palace in Tivoli, all lit up. Inside are some very fancy, Michelin-starred restaurants (that we didn't eat at).
44 The Arabian Palace in Tivoli, all lit up. Inside are some very fancy, Michelin-starred restaurants (that we didn't eat at).
 Tivoli's Russian House, and the cute merry-go-round.
45 Tivoli's Russian House, and the cute merry-go-round.
I love this shot!!
46 I love this shot!!
 Copenhagen sells hot mulled wine with raisins and nuts called "glogg" at Christmastime, and these delicious chocolate-dipped gingerbread cookies. This nice Tivoli employee sold me my first fix.
47 Copenhagen sells hot mulled wine with raisins and nuts called "glogg" at Christmastime, and these delicious chocolate-dipped gingerbread cookies. This nice Tivoli employee sold me my first fix.
 Matt, his glogg, and one very big gingerbread cookie.
48 Matt, his glogg, and one very big gingerbread cookie.
 ...and I ate most of that cookie. Matt knew better than to take it away from me. :)
49 ...and I ate most of that cookie. Matt knew better than to take it away from me. :)
 I thought this was hilarious, and oh-so-Danish. One of Tivoli's Michelin-starred restaurants, Kahler, is a "design concept" restaurant. You don't just order food. You order the CHAIR TO SIT IN to go with your meal. Awesome.
50 I thought this was hilarious, and oh-so-Danish. One of Tivoli's Michelin-starred restaurants, Kahler, is a "design concept" restaurant. You don't just order food. You order the CHAIR TO SIT IN to go with your meal. Awesome.
A skybridge view of the park.
51 A skybridge view of the park.
 There is a nightly Nutcracker Laser & Water Show on Tivoli Lake...
52 There is a nightly Nutcracker Laser & Water Show on Tivoli Lake...
 Whee!! Nutcracker Water Show!
53 Whee!! Nutcracker Water Show!
 Color me very, very happy at Tivoli. I want to LIVE here.
54 Color me very, very happy at Tivoli. I want to LIVE here.
 The next morning, Matt made a lovely hot gourmet breakfast in the apartment's kitchen. Dig those hot pajamas on that awesome chef.
55 The next morning, Matt made a lovely hot gourmet breakfast in the apartment's kitchen. Dig those hot pajamas on that awesome chef.
One of the (many) things I love about Copenhagen is that 60% of the residents bike to work year-round. This is a typical Danish parking lot.
56 One of the (many) things I love about Copenhagen is that 60% of the residents bike to work year-round. This is a typical Danish parking lot.
 What a parking lot at a Danish transit center looks like- all bikes!
57 What a parking lot at a Danish transit center looks like- all bikes!
 A lovely church in Copenhagen
58 A lovely church in Copenhagen
 First castle of the day: Christianborg, right in the middle of central Copenhagen.
59 First castle of the day: Christianborg, right in the middle of central Copenhagen.
 The entry has a grand staircase up to the exhibit rooms.
60 The entry has a grand staircase up to the exhibit rooms.
Christianborg was the royal family residence from the 1400s until the 1700s, when they moved to Amelienborg.
61 Christianborg was the royal family residence from the 1400s until the 1700s, when they moved to Amelienborg.
 The top of the landing leads off to the viewing rooms. Notice that we were required to wear blue bootie covers to protect the floors!
62 The top of the landing leads off to the viewing rooms. Notice that we were required to wear blue bootie covers to protect the floors!
 The throne room of Christianborg.
63 The throne room of Christianborg.
 Intimidating, yes?
64 Intimidating, yes?
 Matt poses in one of the many ballrooms.
65 Matt poses in one of the many ballrooms.
Another lovely sitting room. We are getting excellent amortization value from our Copenhagen Cards.
66 Another lovely sitting room. We are getting excellent amortization value from our Copenhagen Cards.
 This piano was a wedding present to the king in the 1920s.
67 This piano was a wedding present to the king in the 1920s.
 Matt takes a selfie of us in the palace's enormous entryway mirror.
68 Matt takes a selfie of us in the palace's enormous entryway mirror.
 All castles have tapestries- they were originally hung to block out the cold. But in 2000, the Queen wanted NEW tapestries. These modern-style tapestries took years to make, and reflect the history of Denmark.
69 All castles have tapestries- they were originally hung to block out the cold. But in 2000, the Queen wanted NEW tapestries. These modern-style tapestries took years to make, and reflect the history of Denmark.
 Another view of the tapestries in the Great Hall.
70 Another view of the tapestries in the Great Hall.
Lovely chandeliers illuminate the tapestries.
71 Lovely chandeliers illuminate the tapestries.
 This is the Dining Room. I hope it's just for special occasions- it's so ginormous that 75 people can sit here!
72 This is the Dining Room. I hope it's just for special occasions- it's so ginormous that 75 people can sit here!
 Matt in the dining room
73 Matt in the dining room
 Oooh! More ballrooms!
74 Oooh! More ballrooms!
 Another lovely sitting room with an exquisite ceiling.
75 Another lovely sitting room with an exquisite ceiling.
The Palace has many floors, all connected by the grand staircase. Visitors are only allowed to see the 2nd floor, however. The Prime Minister of Denmark lives upstairs!
76 The Palace has many floors, all connected by the grand staircase. Visitors are only allowed to see the 2nd floor, however. The Prime Minister of Denmark lives upstairs!
 Another ballroom with elaborate chandeliers.
77 Another ballroom with elaborate chandeliers.
 Another shot of the ballroom.
78 Another shot of the ballroom.
 The Palace library!
79 The Palace library!
 The next castle up was Rosenborg, very near our apartment. The castle is surrounded by the lovely Kong Have (King's Garden), which is now a public park.
80 The next castle up was Rosenborg, very near our apartment. The castle is surrounded by the lovely Kong Have (King's Garden), which is now a public park.
At Rosenborg, we noticed all these guards lined up in the courtyard, and a military brass band was playing. Turns out the Queen was there, and if we'd stuck around, we could have met her.
81 At Rosenborg, we noticed all these guards lined up in the courtyard, and a military brass band was playing. Turns out the Queen was there, and if we'd stuck around, we could have met her.
 Inside Rosenborg, it is not as grand as Christianborg. It's more of a medieval castle.
82 Inside Rosenborg, it is not as grand as Christianborg. It's more of a medieval castle.
 But the Royal Treasury is there, and this is the King's Crown!
83 But the Royal Treasury is there, and this is the King's Crown!
 The amazing, ornate Crown.
84 The amazing, ornate Crown.
 Previous iterations of the Crowns of Denmark.
85 Previous iterations of the Crowns of Denmark.
The Queen's Royal Jewelry.
86 The Queen's Royal Jewelry.
 Look! I'm next to the Crowns!
87 Look! I'm next to the Crowns!
 Matt tries on the Crowns for size...
88 Matt tries on the Crowns for size...
 After our Castle visits, we strolled the Stroget (the pedestrian shopping street) and discovered the Christmas Market!
89 After our Castle visits, we strolled the Stroget (the pedestrian shopping street) and discovered the Christmas Market!
 Matt at the Christmas Market.
90 Matt at the Christmas Market.
Oooh! Fake snow!
91 Oooh! Fake snow!
 The Market sold Christmas gifts- locally made sweaters and hats, plus lots of yummy food and glogg.
92 The Market sold Christmas gifts- locally made sweaters and hats, plus lots of yummy food and glogg.
 Sausages at the Market! Or, as they're called in Denmark, "pulses."
93 Sausages at the Market! Or, as they're called in Denmark, "pulses."
 Enjoying our walk on the lovely Stroget.
94 Enjoying our walk on the lovely Stroget.
 As we crossed the canal, we noticed a sculpture under the water!
95 As we crossed the canal, we noticed a sculpture under the water!
It's called "Neptune and His Seven Sons."
96 It's called "Neptune and His Seven Sons."
 Mmmm....one thing Denmark is famous for is pastry....I see CUPCAKES!
97 Mmmm....one thing Denmark is famous for is pastry....I see CUPCAKES!
 The items in the top left officially became my vice. Chocolate-dipped gingerbread. Mmmmmm
98 The items in the top left officially became my vice. Chocolate-dipped gingerbread. Mmmmmm
 We next visited the Rundetarn, or Round Tower. This is Europe's oldest observatory. Instead of stairs, the way up is a spiral wooden ramp.
99 We next visited the Rundetarn, or Round Tower. This is Europe's oldest observatory. Instead of stairs, the way up is a spiral wooden ramp.
 The view over Copenhagen from the top of the Rundetarn.
100 The view over Copenhagen from the top of the Rundetarn.
Copenhagen!
101 Copenhagen!
 There was a toilet on the ramp- it is kept for viewing because Hans Christian Andersen had pooped here. :)
102 There was a toilet on the ramp- it is kept for viewing because Hans Christian Andersen had pooped here. :)
 Our next stop was the National Museum.
103 Our next stop was the National Museum.
 It's a very Scandinavian, airy design- but not a hugely interesting museum.
104 It's a very Scandinavian, airy design- but not a hugely interesting museum.
 We walked by Tivoli on the way back from the National Museum.
105 We walked by Tivoli on the way back from the National Museum.
Across the street from Tivoli is a large statue of Hans Christian Andersen.
106 Across the street from Tivoli is a large statue of Hans Christian Andersen.
 ....and he gazes lovingly at Tivoli.
107 ....and he gazes lovingly at Tivoli.
 The Christmas Markets are even prettier at night, so we went back!
108 The Christmas Markets are even prettier at night, so we went back!
 Happy Christmas Nordic Joneses.
109 Happy Christmas Nordic Joneses.
 And of course, nighttime Christmas Markets mean GLOGG.
110 And of course, nighttime Christmas Markets mean GLOGG.
The Stroget all lit up at night.
111 The Stroget all lit up at night.
 A pianist set himself up in the middle of the Stroget, and was playing Christmas carols.
112 A pianist set himself up in the middle of the Stroget, and was playing Christmas carols.
 A beautiful shot of the pianist on the Stroget with the Christmas Market in the background.
113 A beautiful shot of the pianist on the Stroget with the Christmas Market in the background.
 I love the Stroget street food!! Like...Nutella crepes.
114 I love the Stroget street food!! Like...Nutella crepes.
 I am eating the sh*t out of my Nutella crepe. And I'm not sharing.
115 I am eating the sh*t out of my Nutella crepe. And I'm not sharing.
The next day, we went on a day trip. We hopped a train 1 hour north to Fredericksborg Castle.
116 The next day, we went on a day trip. We hopped a train 1 hour north to Fredericksborg Castle.
 Fredericksborg is a royal "retreat," beautifully set on a lake.
117 Fredericksborg is a royal "retreat," beautifully set on a lake.
 The Castle reminded us of Heidelberg in Germany.
118 The Castle reminded us of Heidelberg in Germany.
 The spacious courtyard
119 The spacious courtyard
 Like any good castle, it had its own miniature model!
120 Like any good castle, it had its own miniature model!
One of the features of the castle was the grand church inside.
121 One of the features of the castle was the grand church inside.
 The cavernous church inside Fredericksborg.
122 The cavernous church inside Fredericksborg.
 Matt hides in the organ balcony :)
123 Matt hides in the organ balcony :)
 A royal sitting room...
124 A royal sitting room...
 What a king's bedroom circa 1750 looks like.
125 What a king's bedroom circa 1750 looks like.
Fredericksborg's dining room.
126 Fredericksborg's dining room.
 My favorite room: The ginormous ballroom. And, it featured a display of previous queens' gowns.
127 My favorite room: The ginormous ballroom. And, it featured a display of previous queens' gowns.
 The Queens' gowns.
128 The Queens' gowns.
 My personal favorite gown.
129 My personal favorite gown.
 Another royal bedroom.
130 Another royal bedroom.
Another royal sitting room (royalty seems to sit a lot).
131 Another royal sitting room (royalty seems to sit a lot).
 ...and another dining/sitting room.
132 ...and another dining/sitting room.
 Exiting Fredericksborg leads us over a bridge with a view of Hillerod, the nearby town.
133 Exiting Fredericksborg leads us over a bridge with a view of Hillerod, the nearby town.
 Fredericksborg's turrets surrounding the Castle.
134 Fredericksborg's turrets surrounding the Castle.
 The next stop was another hour north to the town of Helsingor, to see Kronborg Castle...also known as Elsinore, Hamlet's castle.
135 The next stop was another hour north to the town of Helsingor, to see Kronborg Castle...also known as Elsinore, Hamlet's castle.
On my way to see Hamlet!
136 On my way to see Hamlet!
 ...and like all good castles, Kronborg also has a model!
137 ...and like all good castles, Kronborg also has a model!
 Kronborg isn't really a castle. It's a battlement- Denmark perched it on the edge of a cliff, overlooking Sweden, to protect its borders and charge "passage" fees.
138 Kronborg isn't really a castle. It's a battlement- Denmark perched it on the edge of a cliff, overlooking Sweden, to protect its borders and charge "passage" fees.
 One of the castle's bedrooms.
139 One of the castle's bedrooms.
 And weirdly, the castle had a playroom, filled with, of course, Danish Legos.
140 And weirdly, the castle had a playroom, filled with, of course, Danish Legos.
Previous visitors' Lego projects line the window overlooking the sea.
141 Previous visitors' Lego projects line the window overlooking the sea.
 The playroom also had paper dolls, and a huge castle dollhouse to put them in! This is my doll. ;)
142 The playroom also had paper dolls, and a huge castle dollhouse to put them in! This is my doll. ;)
 A view across to Sweden.
143 A view across to Sweden.
 The interior courtyard of Kronborg, with its steep spires.
144 The interior courtyard of Kronborg, with its steep spires.
 In the basement of the castle is a HUGE statue of Holger. Holger is known as "The Sleeping Giant," and legend says that he awakens when the nation of Denmark is in trouble. Kind of like their Superman. :)
145 In the basement of the castle is a HUGE statue of Holger. Holger is known as "The Sleeping Giant," and legend says that he awakens when the nation of Denmark is in trouble. Kind of like their Superman. :)
Matt makes a lovely Holger.
146 Matt makes a lovely Holger.
 There is a stone plaque dedicated to Shakespeare in the courtyard. But, Shakespeare never came here- in fact, he never set foot in Denmark. He only based "Hamlet" at this castle because it was a fancy new building in Shakepeare's time.
147 There is a stone plaque dedicated to Shakespeare in the courtyard. But, Shakespeare never came here- in fact, he never set foot in Denmark. He only based "Hamlet" at this castle because it was a fancy new building in Shakepeare's time.
 We walked the fortifications in the very chilly, windy weather.
148 We walked the fortifications in the very chilly, windy weather.
 Saying good-bye to Hamlet!!
149 Saying good-bye to Hamlet!!
 We hadn't eaten all day, and our guidebook told us to head into the town of Helsingor and find a cute little cafe called David's, housed in a creaky half-timbered home.
150 We hadn't eaten all day, and our guidebook told us to head into the town of Helsingor and find a cute little cafe called David's, housed in a creaky half-timbered home.
We ordered the "shopping lunch," which is Danish smorrebrod (literally, "bread and butter"). Smorrebrod is open-faced sandwiches topped with fish or sausage. Absolutely delicious.
151 We ordered the "shopping lunch," which is Danish smorrebrod (literally, "bread and butter"). Smorrebrod is open-faced sandwiches topped with fish or sausage. Absolutely delicious.
 Last stop of the day: While heading south back to Copenhagen, we stopped halfway at the world-famous Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. Truly, it was a bore for me, but there was this AMAZING installation. This is a small room filled with tiny lights, and the walls are mirrored; the floor is 3 inches of water (visitors stand on a plank). The result is so cool, I had to take a selfie in the mirror.
152 Last stop of the day: While heading south back to Copenhagen, we stopped halfway at the world-famous Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. Truly, it was a bore for me, but there was this AMAZING installation. This is a small room filled with tiny lights, and the walls are mirrored; the floor is 3 inches of water (visitors stand on a plank). The result is so cool, I had to take a selfie in the mirror.
 THIS IS WHY I HATE MODERN ART. Seriously...this is an exhibit at the Louisiana. At $25/per person admission (though we were free with our Copenhagen Tourist Cards), I'd be mad enough to burn the "art" off the walls. Ptooey.
153 THIS IS WHY I HATE MODERN ART. Seriously...this is an exhibit at the Louisiana. At $25/per person admission (though we were free with our Copenhagen Tourist Cards), I'd be mad enough to burn the "art" off the walls. Ptooey.
 When we returned to Copenhagen, the buildings were all lit up for Christmas.
154 When we returned to Copenhagen, the buildings were all lit up for Christmas.
 On the left is the Danish Opera House; on the right, a department store.
155 On the left is the Danish Opera House; on the right, a department store.
The Danish Opera House.
156 The Danish Opera House.
 My absolute favorite light display in Copenhagen: The Hotel D'Angleterre, with an gorgeous Nutracker display.
157 My absolute favorite light display in Copenhagen: The Hotel D'Angleterre, with an gorgeous Nutracker display.
 Inside the D'Angleterre was a sweets-fest!
158 Inside the D'Angleterre was a sweets-fest!
 Lovely cupcakes and candies...but sadly not real. :)
159 Lovely cupcakes and candies...but sadly not real. :)
 The next morning, it was a clear, sunny, cold day. A perfect day to visit the Church of Our Savior.
160 The next morning, it was a clear, sunny, cold day. A perfect day to visit the Church of Our Savior.
Normally you would not find Joneses in churches. But! This church has an amazing spire, with a staircase wrapped around the OUTSIDE that you can climb. It's a gorgeous design.
161 Normally you would not find Joneses in churches. But! This church has an amazing spire, with a staircase wrapped around the OUTSIDE that you can climb. It's a gorgeous design.
 Matt hikes up the outdoor spiral staircase.
162 Matt hikes up the outdoor spiral staircase.
 The church's 19th century machinery can be viewed through the spire windows as you climb the outdoor staircase.
163 The church's 19th century machinery can be viewed through the spire windows as you climb the outdoor staircase.
 Climbing the staircase on a stunning Copenhagen morning!
164 Climbing the staircase on a stunning Copenhagen morning!
 A view from the top, over the rooftops of Copenhagen
165 A view from the top, over the rooftops of Copenhagen
The lovely copper stairs. I can only imagine what a deathtrap this slippery staircase is during rain, snow, and any icy conditions.
166 The lovely copper stairs. I can only imagine what a deathtrap this slippery staircase is during rain, snow, and any icy conditions.
 The entryway to the viewing deck on the roof had a very strange nautical-like porthole design.
167 The entryway to the viewing deck on the roof had a very strange nautical-like porthole design.
 Copenhagen from the very top!!
168 Copenhagen from the very top!!
 Enjoying the view.
169 Enjoying the view.
 I love the way the old city runs for miles- there are no ugly 1970s concrete buildings to ruin the view, or modern skyscrapers.
170 I love the way the old city runs for miles- there are no ugly 1970s concrete buildings to ruin the view, or modern skyscrapers.
After our visit up the spire, we went to Christiana. This is a former military barracks that was taken over by hippie squatters in the 1970s. Free love and commune and all that...except for the $9 coffees they sell to tourists, and all the garbage strewn about. Nasty. We left after 15 minutes.
171 After our visit up the spire, we went to Christiana. This is a former military barracks that was taken over by hippie squatters in the 1970s. Free love and commune and all that...except for the $9 coffees they sell to tourists, and all the garbage strewn about. Nasty. We left after 15 minutes.
 Nyhavn on a lovely, chilly morning.
172 Nyhavn on a lovely, chilly morning.
 Locals on a crewing team rowed through the canals.
173 Locals on a crewing team rowed through the canals.
 This is a weird shot. See, Copenhagen has all these cute "liveability" things hidden around the city- it's the world's happiest city, and most liveable, for a reason. So what is this? Along the canal promenade, the city built TRAMPOLINES. You can boing, boing, boing from one to another, just for fun. I love to bounce. However, I nearly tore a hamstring on the rebound. Tons of fun.
174 This is a weird shot. See, Copenhagen has all these cute "liveability" things hidden around the city- it's the world's happiest city, and most liveable, for a reason. So what is this? Along the canal promenade, the city built TRAMPOLINES. You can boing, boing, boing from one to another, just for fun. I love to bounce. However, I nearly tore a hamstring on the rebound. Tons of fun.
 Enjoying the morning stroll!
175 Enjoying the morning stroll!
Copenhagen is expensive. Absurdly so. Observe: This is what a $4.50 macaron looks like. THIS is what someone who will PAY $4.50 for a macaron looks like.
176 Copenhagen is expensive. Absurdly so. Observe: This is what a $4.50 macaron looks like. THIS is what someone who will PAY $4.50 for a macaron looks like.
 Walking along a quiet side street.
177 Walking along a quiet side street.
 So not only is Copenhagen the most liveable city, and the happiest, it is also home to the world's best restaurant (2011, 2012, 2013): Rene Ledzepi's famous Noma. Matt obviously required a pilgrimage here. Note that we did not EAT here- lunch costs about $500 per person. Did I mention Copenhagen is absurdly expensive?
178 So not only is Copenhagen the most liveable city, and the happiest, it is also home to the world's best restaurant (2011, 2012, 2013): Rene Ledzepi's famous Noma. Matt obviously required a pilgrimage here. Note that we did not EAT here- lunch costs about $500 per person. Did I mention Copenhagen is absurdly expensive?
 Noma sits on the pier in Christianshavn, and faces the Old City across the canal.
179 Noma sits on the pier in Christianshavn, and faces the Old City across the canal.
 Possibly my favorite shot of Nyhavn. The colors, and the light, were amazing.
180 Possibly my favorite shot of Nyhavn. The colors, and the light, were amazing.
Happy (and cold) travelers.
181 Happy (and cold) travelers.
 Matt's best shot of Nyhavn in the noontime sun.
182 Matt's best shot of Nyhavn in the noontime sun.
 Oooh, artsy angle.
183 Oooh, artsy angle.
 And a visit to Nyhavn without drinking glogg would be tragic. Since there are no open container laws, you can happily drink your warm adult beverage and wander the pier. Mmmm.
184 And a visit to Nyhavn without drinking glogg would be tragic. Since there are no open container laws, you can happily drink your warm adult beverage and wander the pier. Mmmm.
 Denmark is home to famous Carlsberg Beer, and since our Copenhagen Tourist Cards included a visit, we obviously hit the brewery!!
185 Denmark is home to famous Carlsberg Beer, and since our Copenhagen Tourist Cards included a visit, we obviously hit the brewery!!
One thing I did not know: The Little Mermaid statue, the symbol of Copenhagen, was commissioned by the Carlsberg family. This, the original cast of the statue, sits inside the brewery.
186 One thing I did not know: The Little Mermaid statue, the symbol of Copenhagen, was commissioned by the Carlsberg family. This, the original cast of the statue, sits inside the brewery.
 I had assumed that since Carlsberg Beer is a Danish national treasure, that the brewery tour would be exceptional. I would be wrong. BUT! It had an adorable brewery cat!!
187 I had assumed that since Carlsberg Beer is a Danish national treasure, that the brewery tour would be exceptional. I would be wrong. BUT! It had an adorable brewery cat!!
 The tour was basically a self-guided nothing, filled with boring 1980s PowerPoint displays. And some empty bottles. But they have a CAT!
188 The tour was basically a self-guided nothing, filled with boring 1980s PowerPoint displays. And some empty bottles. But they have a CAT!
 ...and a HORSE!
189 ...and a HORSE!
 The best thing about the tour: Once we finished our 10-minute self-guided tour and petting zoo, our admissions included 2 free beers each. Score!
190 The best thing about the tour: Once we finished our 10-minute self-guided tour and petting zoo, our admissions included 2 free beers each. Score!
Me have beer! Me in Denmark! Color me excited.
191 Me have beer! Me in Denmark! Color me excited.
 The final Copenhagen Card visit of the day, as it was getting dark at 3:30pm: The Carlsberg Glyptotek. The Carlsberg family really liked sculpture (aside from The Little Mermaid), and they donated their sculpture collection (called a "glyptotek") and this stunning Art Nouveau building to the city.
192 The final Copenhagen Card visit of the day, as it was getting dark at 3:30pm: The Carlsberg Glyptotek. The Carlsberg family really liked sculpture (aside from The Little Mermaid), and they donated their sculpture collection (called a "glyptotek") and this stunning Art Nouveau building to the city.
 Sculpture in the Glyptotek atrium.
193 Sculpture in the Glyptotek atrium.
 So apparently the Carlsberg founder was a PATRON of Rodin's. Yes, that Auguste Rodin, the famous Parisian sculptor of "The Thinker." This is a version of "The Kiss" that Rodin made just for the Carlsberg Glyptotek.
194 So apparently the Carlsberg founder was a PATRON of Rodin's. Yes, that Auguste Rodin, the famous Parisian sculptor of "The Thinker." This is a version of "The Kiss" that Rodin made just for the Carlsberg Glyptotek.
 A small original cast model of Rodin's "The Thinker."
195 A small original cast model of Rodin's "The Thinker."
All good days end with Danish sausages from an outdoor cart. It's a national rule.
196 All good days end with Danish sausages from an outdoor cart. It's a national rule.
 The Copenhagen Rathaus (Town Hall).
197 The Copenhagen Rathaus (Town Hall).
 It's nighttime! That must mean it's time to break out the Copenhagen Cards and head back to TIVOLI!!!!
198 It's nighttime! That must mean it's time to break out the Copenhagen Cards and head back to TIVOLI!!!!
 Cheers and Merry Christmas Beers from Tivoli.
199 Cheers and Merry Christmas Beers from Tivoli.
 Matt in the twinkly tree forest of Tivoli.
200 Matt in the twinkly tree forest of Tivoli.
The Joneses are damn happy to be there.
201 The Joneses are damn happy to be there.
 We even got our annual Santa photo (this is #21 in a series) at Tivoli! This is a real, live Danish Santa.
202 We even got our annual Santa photo (this is #21 in a series) at Tivoli! This is a real, live Danish Santa.
 After our photo was taken, Santa asked us from where we were visiting. We said Seattle, and because we were the first and only visitors from the west coast of the USA, we got to insert our Seattle pushpin into Santa's map!
203 After our photo was taken, Santa asked us from where we were visiting. We said Seattle, and because we were the first and only visitors from the west coast of the USA, we got to insert our Seattle pushpin into Santa's map!
 Naughtiness at Tivoli.
204 Naughtiness at Tivoli.
 Ding ding! It's the Tivoli train!!!
205 Ding ding! It's the Tivoli train!!!
What bathrooms look like at Christmastime in Tivoli.
206 What bathrooms look like at Christmastime in Tivoli.
 Giraffes!! On the merry-go-round!!!
207 Giraffes!! On the merry-go-round!!!
 Our favorite Tivoli bar for many reasons: 1) It is in a secluded part of the park. 2) It is weirdly FAR cheaper than the rest of the bars in Tivoli. 3) The sign above the bar has naked boobies, which you'd never see at Disneyland.
208 Our favorite Tivoli bar for many reasons: 1) It is in a secluded part of the park. 2) It is weirdly FAR cheaper than the rest of the bars in Tivoli. 3) The sign above the bar has naked boobies, which you'd never see at Disneyland.
 For our final day in Copenhagen, we splashed out for the Kong Arthur Hotel on the canal.
209 For our final day in Copenhagen, we splashed out for the Kong Arthur Hotel on the canal.
 Our lovely room.
210 Our lovely room.
The next morning, it was another cold, sunny, beautiful day in Copenhagen.
211 The next morning, it was another cold, sunny, beautiful day in Copenhagen.
 We headed to the windswept waterfront. At the end of the promenade was this lovely church.
212 We headed to the windswept waterfront. At the end of the promenade was this lovely church.
 We went to this out-of-the-way waterfront on the northern tip of the city to see the symbol of Copenhagen: The Little Mermaid statue. As you can see, many other tourists were braving the cold to do the same thing.
213 We went to this out-of-the-way waterfront on the northern tip of the city to see the symbol of Copenhagen: The Little Mermaid statue. As you can see, many other tourists were braving the cold to do the same thing.
 Me and the Little Mermaid.
214 Me and the Little Mermaid.
 Matt gets his photo op with her.
215 Matt gets his photo op with her.
The statue was commissioned by the Carlsberg Brewery family, after seeing a ballet of The Little Mermaid.
216 The statue was commissioned by the Carlsberg Brewery family, after seeing a ballet of The Little Mermaid.
 Joneses in Copenhagen, beeyotch!
217 Joneses in Copenhagen, beeyotch!
 ....and this is my favorite photo of the whole trip: When Selfies Go Wrong.
218 ....and this is my favorite photo of the whole trip: When Selfies Go Wrong.
 After our visit to the Little Mermaid, we went to the Danish Design Museum. Scandinavia is the capital of modern, sleek design.
219 After our visit to the Little Mermaid, we went to the Danish Design Museum. Scandinavia is the capital of modern, sleek design.
 To me, the museum felt like row upon row of chairs. And ironically, there was nowhere for bored visitors to sit.
220 To me, the museum felt like row upon row of chairs. And ironically, there was nowhere for bored visitors to sit.
Next stop: The home of Denmark's most prized export. The Lego Store!
221 Next stop: The home of Denmark's most prized export. The Lego Store!
 Matt at his mecca: The Lego Store on Copenhagen's Stroget.
222 Matt at his mecca: The Lego Store on Copenhagen's Stroget.
 Very cool life-sized Lego sculptures lined the entranceway.
223 Very cool life-sized Lego sculptures lined the entranceway.
 Legos AND bikes? Truly there's something for both of us here...
224 Legos AND bikes? Truly there's something for both of us here...
 A Lego display of Nyhavn!
225 A Lego display of Nyhavn!
So many Legos, so little time...
226 So many Legos, so little time...
 Amazingly enough, we got out of there without buying anything.
227 Amazingly enough, we got out of there without buying anything.
 For our final evening in Copenhagen, we had a stunning sunset over the canal.
228 For our final evening in Copenhagen, we had a stunning sunset over the canal.
 The next morning: To Sweden!
229 The next morning: To Sweden!
 Happy travelers en route to the train to Sweden.
230 Happy travelers en route to the train to Sweden.
In 2000, this amazing bridge opened that is a high-speed link between Copenhagen and Malmo, Sweden. The entire ride is about 30 minutes. And we forgot to pay, so for us, FREE!
231 In 2000, this amazing bridge opened that is a high-speed link between Copenhagen and Malmo, Sweden. The entire ride is about 30 minutes. And we forgot to pay, so for us, FREE!
 Look! I'm in Sweden! Bork bork bork!
232 Look! I'm in Sweden! Bork bork bork!
 We checked into our hotel, which was right off the main Stroget plaza. It was creatively named Hotel Plaza.
233 We checked into our hotel, which was right off the main Stroget plaza. It was creatively named Hotel Plaza.
 Some interesting design choices inside Hotel Plaza. But they had free cookies all day in the lobby, so we're good!
234 Some interesting design choices inside Hotel Plaza. But they had free cookies all day in the lobby, so we're good!
 We strolled Old Town Malmo. This is the main square.
235 We strolled Old Town Malmo. This is the main square.
Matt at Rathaus (City Hall).
236 Matt at Rathaus (City Hall).
 Quaint Old Town with half-timbered buildings. It wasn't what I expected. Honestly, I expected a lot of IKEAs....
237 Quaint Old Town with half-timbered buildings. It wasn't what I expected. Honestly, I expected a lot of IKEAs....
 And just like Copenhagen, the Old Town was divided by a river.
238 And just like Copenhagen, the Old Town was divided by a river.
 The city was just putting up the Christmas tree in time for this photo.
239 The city was just putting up the Christmas tree in time for this photo.
 Enjoying a very cold (25F) day in Sweden.
240 Enjoying a very cold (25F) day in Sweden.
Old Town had some charming sculptures. I loved this one.
241 Old Town had some charming sculptures. I loved this one.
 It's beer o'clock in Sweden!
242 It's beer o'clock in Sweden!
 There really wasn't much to do in Malmo, despite its being one of Sweden's largest cities. So we parked ourselves in a bakery and had cake and coffee.
243 There really wasn't much to do in Malmo, despite its being one of Sweden's largest cities. So we parked ourselves in a bakery and had cake and coffee.
 Last Swedish kroner purchase! Yay gingerbread!
244 Last Swedish kroner purchase! Yay gingerbread!
 We took the train back to Copenhagen (we paid this time), and continued west to Odense on the island of Funen. We checked into a very Danish budget hotel- CabInn. The rooms look just like train bunks!
245 We took the train back to Copenhagen (we paid this time), and continued west to Odense on the island of Funen. We checked into a very Danish budget hotel- CabInn. The rooms look just like train bunks!
Odense Rathaus (Town Hall).
246 Odense Rathaus (Town Hall).
 Some odd public art next to Rathaus.
247 Some odd public art next to Rathaus.
 The odd public art next to the town Christmas tree!
248 The odd public art next to the town Christmas tree!
 This is one of the oldest buildings in Odense; creaky, leaning, and half-timbered.
249 This is one of the oldest buildings in Odense; creaky, leaning, and half-timbered.
 The entryway to the shop, which has been unchanged since the 17th century.
250 The entryway to the shop, which has been unchanged since the 17th century.
Inside the shop is a weird attic/junk vibe. Everything was crammed in and dusty.
251 Inside the shop is a weird attic/junk vibe. Everything was crammed in and dusty.
 More old half-timbered buildings.
252 More old half-timbered buildings.
 So why are we in Odense? It is the birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen. Throughout the town are small whimisical touches, like this public bench.
253 So why are we in Odense? It is the birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen. Throughout the town are small whimisical touches, like this public bench.
 This artwork incorporates many pieces of Andersen's stories.
254 This artwork incorporates many pieces of Andersen's stories.
 Sitting with Hans himself.
255 Sitting with Hans himself.
Sprinkled throughout Odense are Andersen-related statues. This is my favorite.
256 Sprinkled throughout Odense are Andersen-related statues. This is my favorite.
 The picture-perfect Danish street where the Hans Chistian Andersen Museum is.
257 The picture-perfect Danish street where the Hans Chistian Andersen Museum is.
 The Hans Christian Andersen Museum.
258 The Hans Christian Andersen Museum.
 The Museum, located in one of Andersen's former childhood homes.
259 The Museum, located in one of Andersen's former childhood homes.
 Andersen's face is painted onto the side of a building near the Museum.
260 Andersen's face is painted onto the side of a building near the Museum.
My favorite Andersen touch: The very subtle crosswalk lights show Andersen in sillouette.
261 My favorite Andersen touch: The very subtle crosswalk lights show Andersen in sillouette.
 The Hans Christian Andersen "Walk" light in Odense!
262 The Hans Christian Andersen "Walk" light in Odense!
 Andersen's birthplace in Odense, now a UNESCO Heritage Site.
263 Andersen's birthplace in Odense, now a UNESCO Heritage Site.
 Though the town is proud of its most famous son, Andersen HATED Odense, and fled as soon as he was old enough. He went to Copenhagen, and never returned.
264 Though the town is proud of its most famous son, Andersen HATED Odense, and fled as soon as he was old enough. He went to Copenhagen, and never returned.
 The Hans Christian Andersen memorial at the Odense Cathedral.
265 The Hans Christian Andersen memorial at the Odense Cathedral.
Odense has a lovely central park, and I loved this "paper boat" sculpture on the lake.
266 Odense has a lovely central park, and I loved this "paper boat" sculpture on the lake.
 Finally! I get to ride a bike in Denmark!!!
267 Finally! I get to ride a bike in Denmark!!!
 We went on a hunt around Odense for Andersen story statues. This is my favorite: The Emperor's New Clothes, found in a market alley off the Stroget.
268 We went on a hunt around Odense for Andersen story statues. This is my favorite: The Emperor's New Clothes, found in a market alley off the Stroget.
 Rathaus as the sun goes down, and the Christmas lights turn on....
269 Rathaus as the sun goes down, and the Christmas lights turn on....
 The holiday lights over the Stroget entrance. "Jul i City" means "Christmas in the City."
270 The holiday lights over the Stroget entrance. "Jul i City" means "Christmas in the City."
The next day, we returned to Copenhagen in the early afternoon. We checked into the new flashy European hostel chain, The Generator.
271 The next day, we returned to Copenhagen in the early afternoon. We checked into the new flashy European hostel chain, The Generator.
 We couldn't believe how nice this hostel was. Our ensuite room had a view, tons of sunlight, and lots of hygge (Danish coziness).
272 We couldn't believe how nice this hostel was. Our ensuite room had a view, tons of sunlight, and lots of hygge (Danish coziness).
 My company has a major office in Copenhagen, and we had just shipped a major Nordic product the day before! So we stopped by Egencia Copenhagen for a tour.
273 My company has a major office in Copenhagen, and we had just shipped a major Nordic product the day before! So we stopped by Egencia Copenhagen for a tour.
 Egencia Copenhagen! The office is fabulous- airy Scandinavian design, and 2 blocks from Tivoli.
274 Egencia Copenhagen! The office is fabulous- airy Scandinavian design, and 2 blocks from Tivoli.
 My Egencia colleagues recommended we hit the Torvehallerne for lunch- an upmarket food hall.
275 My Egencia colleagues recommended we hit the Torvehallerne for lunch- an upmarket food hall.
Some of the tasty stalls in the Torvehallerne.
276 Some of the tasty stalls in the Torvehallerne.
 For lunch, we settled on a French stall selling duck confit sandwiches with glasses of red wine.
277 For lunch, we settled on a French stall selling duck confit sandwiches with glasses of red wine.
 A lovely flower stand in the Torvehallerne.
278 A lovely flower stand in the Torvehallerne.
 The next day was American Thanksgiving. We resolved to celebrate the sh*t out of our day while spending as little money as possible. So! We hit the National Gallery, which is free. The Gallery itself is a beautiful Art Noveau building, but recently built a modern extension. This is the stunning enclosure linking the two buildings.
279 The next day was American Thanksgiving. We resolved to celebrate the sh*t out of our day while spending as little money as possible. So! We hit the National Gallery, which is free. The Gallery itself is a beautiful Art Noveau building, but recently built a modern extension. This is the stunning enclosure linking the two buildings.
 Statuary in the new building, overlooking the city.
280 Statuary in the new building, overlooking the city.
I loved how the 2 buildings were connected by so much light and space- it felt like a city street.
281 I loved how the 2 buildings were connected by so much light and space- it felt like a city street.
 After the National Gallery, we set out for Norreport. Walking over the bridges, it was another stunning Copenhagen day.
282 After the National Gallery, we set out for Norreport. Walking over the bridges, it was another stunning Copenhagen day.
 Enjoying our last Copenhagen day.
283 Enjoying our last Copenhagen day.
 At the tip of Norreport is the Assistens Cemetery. I love cemeteries, especially lovely ones with dead famous people.
284 At the tip of Norreport is the Assistens Cemetery. I love cemeteries, especially lovely ones with dead famous people.
 The grave of Kierkegaard, one of 2 celebrities buried here.
285 The grave of Kierkegaard, one of 2 celebrities buried here.
You don't get much more "Scandinavian Design" than this guy's headstone.
286 You don't get much more "Scandinavian Design" than this guy's headstone.
 And the big celebrity draw of Assistens: The grave of Hans Christian Andersen.
287 And the big celebrity draw of Assistens: The grave of Hans Christian Andersen.
 Danes have a Christmas tradition: Julekefrost, or "Christmas Lunch." It is a multiple-course buffet with beer and aquavit, and goes on for hours. Since it was Thanksgiving, we scoped for a restaurant that would offer a mini version. We ended up at Restaurant Zeleste in Nyhavn.
288 Danes have a Christmas tradition: Julekefrost, or "Christmas Lunch." It is a multiple-course buffet with beer and aquavit, and goes on for hours. Since it was Thanksgiving, we scoped for a restaurant that would offer a mini version. We ended up at Restaurant Zeleste in Nyhavn.
 Our hygge little table in Zeleste.
289 Our hygge little table in Zeleste.
 This is what Julekefrost looks like, baby. Shrimp in bearnaise sauce, smoked salmon, herring, and duck confit rillettes. And of course Carlsberg beer.
290 This is what Julekefrost looks like, baby. Shrimp in bearnaise sauce, smoked salmon, herring, and duck confit rillettes. And of course Carlsberg beer.
Color me very, very excited to eat my Julekefrost.
291 Color me very, very excited to eat my Julekefrost.
 ...and I ate it all, baby.
292 ...and I ate it all, baby.
 Phase II of Julekefrost: We did like many locals do, and had our post-Julekefrost dessert and wine on the Nyhavn pier. I am once again partaking of Denmark's Christmas gingerbread dipped in chocolate.
293 Phase II of Julekefrost: We did like many locals do, and had our post-Julekefrost dessert and wine on the Nyhavn pier. I am once again partaking of Denmark's Christmas gingerbread dipped in chocolate.
 Matt enjoying our wine in the late afternoon.
294 Matt enjoying our wine in the late afternoon.
 And finally, Phase III of Julekefrost: Denmark is famous for pastry, and Copenhagen is filled with amazing bakery cafes. One of the oldest, and finest, is Conditori Glace (Sugar Bakery). This very old-school cafe has marble tabletops, silver tea service, velvet cushions, and very high-end cakes. I was so full I could only order coffee, but Matt ordered the daily special: A blueberry, caramel, and licorice cake. Ick.
295 And finally, Phase III of Julekefrost: Denmark is famous for pastry, and Copenhagen is filled with amazing bakery cafes. One of the oldest, and finest, is Conditori Glace (Sugar Bakery). This very old-school cafe has marble tabletops, silver tea service, velvet cushions, and very high-end cakes. I was so full I could only order coffee, but Matt ordered the daily special: A blueberry, caramel, and licorice cake. Ick.
Last Danish kroner purchase: M&Ms. And we're off back home to the USA.
296 Last Danish kroner purchase: M&Ms. And we're off back home to the USA.